TOH ZINDA Ho tum
"Dilon mein tum apni Betaabiyan leke chal rahe ho
Toh zinda ho tum
Nazar mein khwabon ki Bijliyan leke chal rahe ho
Toh zinda ho tum
Hawa ke jhokon ke jaise Aazad rehno sikho
Tum ek dariya ke jaise Lehron mein behna sikho
Har ek lamhe se tum milo Khole apni bhaayein
Har ek pal ek naya samha Dekhen yeh nigahaein
Jo apni aankhon mein Hairaniyan leke chal rahe ho
Toh zinda ho tum
Dilon mein tum apni Betaabiyan leke chal rahe ho
Toh zinda ho tum" Javed Akhtar
A Roadtrip Itinerary for Spiti Valley:
Delhi - Narkanda - Kalpa - Nako - Tabo - Spiti - Chandrataal lake - Spiti - Chitkul - Narkanda - Delhi
An unparalleled experience - a road trip through the Himalayas is like none other. With its breath astounding divine views, at times playful road routes ;) and a cosmos so mysterious, discover the serenity and the absolute bliss that can only be found in the beatific corners of India!
​How should I prepare for a 3-week roadtrip?
​
-
Car Servicing: A thorough service of the car before departing can prevent any breakdowns or unanticipated car-related adventures
-
Fuel Tank: Keeping the fuel tank full at all times helps ward off inconveniences posed by last-minute petrol pump strikes or unexpected detours
-
Mapped route with alternatives: We took the time to map our road trip in advance including a few alternative routes keeping our drive flexible
-
Functional GPS by being connected on a local network: The best available network in these areas is jio, purchase a sim card or a dongle in advance to ensure that you stay connected
-
Landslides: Keep a lookout for road signs that indicate areas prone to landslides and drive carefully. In case of extremities, people are placed on the road to warn you of any possible danger ahead
-
Camping gear: Carry your own tent and sleeping bags to optimize your outdoorsy stay
-
Sandwiches: We always prepare sandwiches for a road trip a night before, it prevents us from stopping multiple times and keeps our bellies happy and full as we cover distances
-
Ice box: The ice box kept everything cool including water, sandwiches, sodas, and beers
-
Water, in profusion: At every stop, we continued to replenish our water stock
-
Mosquito repellant: It's a helpful addition to have if you get stranded in the middle of nowhere
-
Array of music: We have a special music list downloaded for road trippin' that keeps us going
-
Booking stays with breakfast: Most stays had breakfast included so the drive of the day commenced after a hearty meal
INR 50000 pp
16
days
11/06/24-26/06/24
Itinerary​
​
Drive from Delhi to Narkanda
412 kms, 9 hours
​
Narkanda
Height: 2708 meters/8599 feet
Stay at the Shilaroo Project
​
Places to eat
-
Cafe Khadu [Wellness holistic food options & mountain views]
-
Cafe Waadi [Open mountain views]
-
The New Himalaya Negi Dhaba [known for its thali specials]
​
Drive from Narkanda to Kalpa
162 kms, 5 hours
​
Kalpa
Height: 2960 meters/9711 feet
Stay at Hotel Rollingrang
​
Drive from Kalpa to Nako
98 kms, 3 hours
​
Nako
Height: 3625 meters/11893 feet
Stay at The Alpinist
​
Drive from Nako to Tabo
63 kms, 1.5 hours
​​
Drive from Nako via Tabo to Kaza
63 + 48 kms, 5 hours
​
Spiti Valley
Height: 4270 meters/14000 feet
Stay at The Alpinist
​
Places to eat
-
Cafe Piti
-
Cafe Zhomsa
-
Deyzor
-
Himalayan Kitchen
-
Sól Cafe
​
Drive from Kaza to Chandrataal Lake
91 kms, 5 hours
​
Chandrataal Lake
Height: 4250 meters/13940 feet
Stay at ​Parasol Camps​​​
When is the best time to drive towards Spiti Valley?
​
The best time to drive towards Spiti Valley are the months of September and October, immediately after the rains. The monsoon showers replenish the mountains making the journey via Narkanda lush green.
The summer months (May-June) remain a favorite to escape the Delhi heat, however, given global warming, sadly the mountains are also becoming progressively hotter. The heat, unfinished/unattended cigarettes and burning of trash are causing forest fires because of which the mountain views en route before the rains can be hazy. Temperatures in November and December can be extremely cold (averaging -20 degrees celsius). January-March are for the brave-hearted because the snowfall results in roads and hotels shutting down.
What kinds of routes / roads will you find yourself driving through?
​
From Delhi, one can either reach Spiti from Manali OR go via Narkanda and Kinnaur. The roads from Narkanda are expansive, smooth and easy to drive on, we recommend taking this route. Consider taking the route via Manali only if you are in a 4x4 since roads are still being constructed and at stretches you will be driving over a river bed. The ‘circuit’ entails driving through Manali, and returning via Narkanda and Kinnaur or vice versa.
​
If you are on the Narkanda-Kinnaur route, the NH 5 will take you towards Khab bridge, where there is a confluence of rivers Satluj and Spiti, after which you will transition towards NH 505. Kinnaur is notoriously known for landslides especially if you find yourself in this region during the monsoons. Do not drive there during the monsoons!​
Courtesy Krishanu Mukherjee, an avid Spiti frequenter - including a few areas / stretches where you want to be extremely vigilant of landslides and rock fall:
​
"1. ​Rampur to Jhakri (mostly tarred, some bad patches, moderately prone)
2. Jeori to Bhabanagar (mostly tarred, some bad patches, moderately prone)
3. Bhabanagar to Wangtu (some very bad patches, and those patches are very landslide prone. Be very careful. That's where you'll see memorials on turns)
4. Tapri to Reckong Peo (fully tarred, but some landslide prone stretches)
5. Reckong Peo to Pooh (fully tarred, but some rockfall prone stretches)
6. Nako to Malling Naala (some very bad patches, and extremely landslide prone. Rockfalls on a daily basis. Be prepared for road closures for a few hours here. Proceed very cautiously. If you want to park at Malling Naala for pictures, cross the Naala and park 100 mtrs ahead in a safe area, and walk back)
7. Malling Naala to Sumdo (mostly tarred, but landslide prone)
8. Tabo to Lingti (mostly tarred, but some areas with loose stones and rocks falling from the cliff)"
Narkanda
At a distance of 403 kilometers from Delhi, Narkanda is an ideal location to break one’s journey, wander amidst the apple and cherry orchards and enjoy the scenic beauty of the forested lands. We found ourselves at a unique mountain homestay, which offers yoga and pottery workshops throughout the year and includes delicious food.
Drive from Narkanda to Kalpa
On the drive from Narkanda to Kalpa, you will find:
​
-
A checkpoint at Kinnaur: Traveler details are noted at this checkpoint just in case something amiss happens on the mountainous route that follows!
-
Taranda Dhank: Featured as one of the 10 deadliest / most dangerous roads in India, Taranda Dhank is a stunning stretch that can also be overwhelming to drive on since one is at the edge of a steep vertical drop right into river Satluj!
Kalpa
With a goal of continually acclimatizing the body, drive from Narkanda to Kalpa. Kalpa is known for its paradisiacal views where snow-capped mountains loom over you, making for a glorious pitstop.
At a height of 6050 meters / 20,000 feet, the hike to Kinnaur / Kinner Kailash can be done across 2-3 days with local mythology dedicating this mountain to Shiva and Parvathi. The Kinner Kailash itself is a 79-feet rock depicting the Shiva lingam accompanied by a pond that is considered Parvathi’s creation. En route one hikes through deodar cedars, which can live up to 1000 years. These trees culminate at a spot called Aashiqui (lovers) park, signifying where Shiva and Parvathi met for the first time, after which the ascend to Kinner continues.
Drive from Kalpa to Nako
The drive from Kalpa to Nako is simply spectacular! The terrain becomes barren with a cushion of snow-capped mountains & a landscape of rocky mountainous views stretches wide into the horizon. Every turn brings with it drop dead gorgeous sights with rocks turning their colors, river spiti & river satluj confluencing in harmony and the ka loop - a series of 24 curvaceous bends that one drives on to ascend towards Nako village and eventually Malling Nala with the most breathtaking views of the Malling range. One eventually transitions to the NH 505 and the roads are smooth, making the drive on the mountains easy and comfortable.
Nako​
The town of Nako is a transit point, a perfect place to acclimatize the body. Most home stays have situated themselves around the Nako lake. During peak travel season the entire town is booked out, so if you’re planning to break your journey in Nako during peak season, definitely book a place well in advance.
A fun highlight of Nako is the 20-minute walk to the Nako viewpoint, also known as Chango Gompa, from where you can see the entire village being adorned by the towering peaks. The point has a 500-year old prayer wheel apparently made from yak skin. If you experience altitude sickness, stay hydrated and trail along the path very slowly because it can feel like a steep ascend given that the body is still acclimatizing.
Drive from Nako via Tabo to Kaza, Spiti Valley
The sights only become more magnificent with the Himalayas showcasing their glorious beauty across changing landscapes and terrains as Spiti river runs through to Kaza and beyond. There are several spots along the way where one can descend closer to the river and bask in nature’s grandeur. ​
Some of the highlights include:
-
Needle Rock Formations, where you get to witness the forces of nature and its manifestations in their full element.
-
Keep a look out for Malling Nala, where the glacial melt can sometimes make it challenging to cross especially post the rains.
Spiti Valley
Kaza is currently the main town in Spiti. During the peak season, home stays tend to get sold out so its best to plan and book your visit well in advance. Located 6 kilometers away, the town of Renrik is developing to provide alternatives in terms of stay and food. Within Kaza, you will find cozy cafes such as Piti, Zhomsa, Deyzor, Himalayan Kitchen and Sol, all offering an ambit of food options. ​​
Plan a day trip from Kaza to visit,​​
-
Langza Village: Known for all the Tethys sea fossils
-
Komic: Highest village connected with a motorable road
-
Hikkim: Allegedly the world's highest post office at 4440 mts / 14567 feet
Chandrataal
A must-visit, Chandrataal translates into moon lake since it's in the shape of a crescent. We hired a local taxi with high ground clearance and an extremely experienced driver from Kaza as the roads especially the final 15 kilometer stretch around Kunzum pass are yet to be constructed. Additionally, there are 3-5 nalas characterized by glacial melts that can be difficult to navigate depending on the intensity of the water flow. As one enters Chandrataal, one leaves behind connectivity as there is no network in this zone, a message board advises informing loved ones of the same. Although the distance between Kaza and Chandrataal is only 91 kms, the drive takes around 5-6 hours because of the road conditions.
Words can barely do justice for the unsurpassed beauty that exists - it has to be experienced to gauge the unfathomable wonders of the earth at least once in a lifetime! To protect the sweet water lake, campsites are at a distance. One can go closer to the lake by car and then walk the remaining 1 kilometer. We hiked the surrounding mountains and enjoyed the lake view from different vantage points. Star gaze at night and lake watch by day as the sun comes up, fluffy clouds settle in and blue skies amidst the snow-capped peaks only make the lake so much more radiant. Temperatures drop drastically at night even during the summer months so carry warm clothing and bundle up.
