Αυτή Είναι Η Ζωή
"This is life, With ups and downs
The best part is the following
It's lent afterall
And love will come, Love...
By the time the arrow, Hits the heart
The most beautiful flower, Burns into the fire
Into the sunshine, A perfect rain falls
For the one that has been hurt, Deep into the soul
I didn't know what pain is, What poison means
How to roll a ciggy, How the wine speaks
And I sing, To health, and down the hatch!
Howdy, let's move on
Everything is ok and everything is messed up" ~ Panos Mouzourakis
Often referred to as the cradle of western civilization, Ancient Greece is inundated with history, mythology and amalgamated cultures that makes Greece distinctive from the rest of Europe. A place I definitely intend to go back to, Greece has so much to explore that I feel this trip I merely scratched the surface!
2 days in Kalamata
$1900 per person
10
days
08/30/19-09/10/19
Getting There​
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Flight from New York to Athens
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Duration: 8 hours with a layover [2 hours]
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Airline: Norwegian Airlines
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Cost: $555 round-trip
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Fight from Athens to Crete
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Duration: 55 minutes
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Airline: Volotea
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Cost: $150 round-trip
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Heads up: With this airline, MUST do an online check-in [which closes 2 hours before the flight time], otherwise you will be charged 30 euros per person for your boarding pass *eye roll*
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Drive from Athens to Kalamata
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Duration: 2 hours 45 minutes
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Car company: Avis
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Cost: $235 for 3 days
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Stay
Crete
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Airbnb in the town of Heraklion: $30 per night
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Location: 20-minute walk from the center
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Rating: 3 out of 5
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Comments: Beautiful view of the ocean; has a free bus that connects to the center but is rather infrequent
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Airbnb in the town of Chania: $30 per night
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Location: 20-minute drive from the center
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Rating: 3.5 out of 5
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Comments: Has a direct bus to the Samaria Gorge right outside​​
Food Much
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Greek Cuisine
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Kalamata
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Breakfast special/snacks: Lalaggi maniatiko, Koulouri thessalonikis
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Kalamata olives
Crete
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Svakiano
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Boureki: Stuffed rolls with zucchini, potato, spearmint & mizithra cheese
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Fried Cretan potatoes with 'staka' (buttered cheese)
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Hochlious [snails]
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Apaki [smoked pork]
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Skaltsounia with veggies, honey & cheese
Athens​
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Souvlaki
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Tzatziki
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Restaurants [to savor the above]
​Crete
Athens​
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Ama Lachei, Exarchia district
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Rakor, Plateon
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Cocktails
Kalamata
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Kastraki-Meteoro: Amazing for evening cocktails, sunset and a breathtaking view of Kalamata
Athens
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Bios: Drinks on a rooftop with a fantastic view of Parthenon
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Info on Tickets
Reduced entry applies on all tickets so if you're a student, make sure to carry your student ID.
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Kalamata
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Ancient Messene: Available at entrance
Crete
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Knossos Palace, Heraklion
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Samaria Gorge, Chaniá: Available at entrance
Athens
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Acropolis [Best to purchase in advance]
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Beaches of Kalamata
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Old Town
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Ancient Messine
Located to the west of Athens at a distance of 265 kilometers is the city of Kalamata. It takes around 2.5 hours by both bus and car and it’s a beautiful drive amidst mountains and the coast.
10 days in Greece
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Day 1: Fly into Athens; Drive to Kalamata
Day 2: Kalamata - Stunning beaches of Kalamata
Day 3: Kalamata - Ancient sites such as Messine / Olympia
Day 4: Drive to Athens; Flight from Athens to Crete
Day 5: Crete - Knossos Palace, Heraklion
Day 6: Crete - Old town of Chaniá
Day 7: Crete - Hike Samaria Gorge
Day 8: Crete - Elafonisi Beach {Best beach in Greece}
Day 9: Flight from Crete to Athens; Athens
Day 10: Athens - Acropolis, walk around central part of town
Beaches at Kalamata
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Kalamata is known for its stunning beaches and glorious sunsets! The coast stretches across a 45-minute drive and there are myriad beach bars to choose from, which have delicious seafood grills, cocktails & fredo coffees.
Located in the old town of Kalamata is a Byzantine church constructed in 1317. On 23rd March 1821, the Greek revolution commenced at this iconic landmark. After 400 years of Turkish rule, Greece was liberated from the Ottoman Empire.
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The center of town is filled with cute cafes and restaurants! Perfect spot to grab breakfast and a fredo cappuccino before one begins the day explorations!
Ancient Messene
A 30-minute drive from Kalamata, within Peloponnese, one of the 13 regions of Greece, lies Ancient Messene. A recently excavated site, the city is surrounded by Ithome mountain forming a natural fortification. For the history buffs, even though excavations began 100 years ago, only one-third of its total size has been unearthed and so the digging continues!
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Sparta controlled the Messene region for hundreds of years. The city of Ancient Messene, however, was built in 369 BC, when the Theban army general Epaminondas defeated the Spartan military power.
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Influenced by Hippodamian style (ancient Greek architect - Hippodamus) the city had been ‘zoned’ around the agora (assembly), buildings where political and economic decisions were made, temple of Poseidon, basilica, theatre that wind down to the massive gymnasium and stadium, which the Romans used for gladiator and animal fights.
The space is expansive and one can easily spend a couple of hours walking through the ancient site re-imagining history. If it's a hot sunny day, make sure you're carrying a hat and water to stay hydrated, much needed! As you drive out from Ancient Messene, there are a few restaurants en route overlooking the site and you can continue to enjoy the magnanimity of the ruins as you sip on some Kalamata beer and local food.
Interestingly, the stadium is now used for hosting concerts and performances with thousands of people coming together to soak in the music in the midst of ancient history and starry skies, a surreal experience I would imagine! Historical memories are being recreated as spaces are repurposed, from gladiator fights to musical and spiritual experiences!
4 days in Crete
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Knossos Palace
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Samaria Gorge
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Elafonisi Beach
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Old town of Chania
Greece is known for its gorgeous islands and no escapade to Greece is complete without spending time in its natural beauty. We zeroed in on Crete, which is a massive island and decided to spend around four days to explore the different facets of palaces, gorges, beaches and old towns.
We landed in Heraklion, which is where the Knossos Palace is located. The other option is to fly directly into the town of Chania and use it as a base, since the old town of Chania is quaint with super fun vibes. A convenient way to get around the island is to rent a car. The airport has myriad companies and reserving online in advance saves unnecessary scuffles.
Knossos Palace, Heraklion
The oldest palace in Crete, it dates back as old as 1900 B.C! With the Minoan dynasty in power, Knossos was the center of administrative and economic decisions. King Minos, one of three siblings was ruling and in power. Mythological tales say that Zeus, the Greek god fell in love with Europa, an earthly being marking the union of the the heavens and earth, making their children including King Minos semi-divine.
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An English archeologist, Arthur Evans, discovered Knossos Palace and took it upon himself to restore and reconstruct parts of the palace to give us an idea of what the past palace life encompassed. This was highly contested though because some of these restorations were irreversible and the preservation efforts resulted in the very ancient palace looking new and shiny, somewhat losing it's original charm.
Well-known for frescos, the palace used to be immersed in art. Distinctive to this design is the surface being scratched off in parts and then filled in with pigment also known as in-cava technique.
The ticket for Knossos palace includes the entrance to the Archeological Museum of Crete, which includes original frescos from the palace, a blueprint of Knossos in its entirety and all the tools, earthen pots, and accessories that were retrieved from caves, explicating how history evolved through the centuries.
Walking through ancient remains of a structure that is 3900 years ago, 3.9.0.0 y.e.a.r.s a.g.o is absolutely unreal!
Samaria Gorge
One of the most exciting things to do in Crete is hiking the Samaria Gorge. Through the stretch of 13-15 kms the trail is all downhill or leveled. The 7-hour hike leaves one astounded in terms of the natural landscapes, beauty and stunning sights of untouched raw Crete. As one drives to the entrance of the gorge, one gets to enjoy the pine trees characteristic of Crete and grazing sheep on the surrounding mountains. In fact, while hiking one is advised to walk speedily in parts because the sheep and Cretan goat, Kri-kri are happily springing through the mountains leading to loosened rocks and stones that can roll down. Seeing the Kri-kri goat is quite a sight because it's currently endangered and mainly found in Crete, almost at the brink of extinction :(
Preparing for the hike:
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Even though the hike is downhill the suggestion is to still wear solid hiking shoes because the profusion of rocks and pebbles en route can lead to immense pain in the calves in the aftermath of the hike (talking from experience ;)
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There is no food available through the trail so best to carry food and snacks for the day. Cold fresh spring water is there in plenty for refills along the way.
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We stayed at an Airbnb, which had a local bus leaving for the gorge right outside their house. The bus is scheduled to pick up passengers in that area (Fournes) between 7:45 and 8:00 AM and charges 5.30 euros.
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It’s an all day expedition, where we began the hike by 9:00 AM. There is a map available at the entrance, which explicates the rest stops that are initially frequent (every 20 minutes) and then get staggered across 40 minutes towards the culmination. We reached the exit at around 4:00 PM.
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Thereafter, one can walk an additional 2 kilometers to the town of Agia Roumeli or take a mini-bus for 2 euros.
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A damn cute village, there are places to eat and a beach to take a dip after the long haul of the hike, so carry a swimsuit to soak the sweat and aches away ;)
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From the village, one needs to take a ferry to catch a bus to return to the original destination. Beware, because the point where you start the hike in the morning, the shopkeeper persuades everyone that his shop is the only and final place from where one can purchase ferry tickets, which is false! As you reach Agia Roumeli, you can buy tickets for the ferry that departs at 5:30 PM. Student discounts are widely available so if you’re studying do carry your student id. We ended up buying tickets from the shopkeeper atop (ticket cost: 10 euros, student discounted tickets: 7.50 euros). Based on where you’re headed, there are two towns to which the ferry can drop you, Sfakia and Souia. One can even spend the night in these villages to further enjoy the Cretan vibe.
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In case you don’t want to hike the long 13-15 kms, a suggestion is to drive down to Sfakia or Souia, spend time in the village, take the ferry to Agia Roumeli and walk from the exit of the gorge to the village of Samaria. Through the 3 kilometer hike, one still gets to see the glorious sights especially, the point where two mountains come together at a distance of 3 meters powering over a height of 300 meters. However, if you can, the whole hike is highly recommended to experience the gorge in its entirety!
Elafonissi Beach
Considered the MOST beautiful beach in Greece, Elafonissi is unique because of the pink sand and ocean surrounding both sides of the beach, a sight I have never seen before! Highly recommended with an assurance that you’ll be absolutely blown away as you spend your day immersed in the expansive horizons, blue green turquoise colors of the water, cool breeze and utmost relaxation.
The beach itself sprawls far and wide, and even though it’s inundated by tourists and locals alike, one easily finds a spot to soak in the beach bum vibes. Located on the south-west part of the island, Elafonissi is an hour & half drive away from the town of Chania.
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We were tempted to stay for the sunset and see the sun dip into the water but the drive back is through winding roads, which in the dark could be slightly tricky. Unless you are very comfortable with driving back through mountainous roads that may not be too well- lit, plan your departure accordingly.
Old town of Chania (Ha-nia)
Staying within the old town of Chania can be a delightful experience especially, since the tiny cobbled streets, old renovated buildings, plethora of cafes and restaurants, fresh breeze from the ocean, lighthouse under the full moon make for a concoction to be had. It’s quaintness made me revel in each moment as I walked down the tiny alleyways never wanting to leave ;)
After every meal, each restaurant would bring out Crete’s favorite drink, Raki, accompanied by dessert on the house. Raki can be super strong and is also served in flavors such as coffee, which I found rather delicious. Ouzo is another drink that Greeks love to sip on, before during and after meals that span all times of the day ;)
It’s fascinating because the culture of Crete is vastly different from mainland Greece. Due to its location, it was strategically placed and trade flourished with early civilizations such as Egypt and Asia. You continue to see those ramifications on Cretan culture even today.
2 days in Athens
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Acropolis; Parthenon
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Acropolis Museum
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Wandering through and getting lost in the streets of Athens
Acropolis
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Placed on the sacred rock, the Acropolis has a multitude of sights included in the single-entry ticket;
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Parthenon
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Beulé Gate
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Odeon of Herodus Atticus [Second-century theatre]
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Monument of Agrippa [First century BC]
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Theatre of Dionysus
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Athena Nike Temple
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Porch of the Caryatids at the Erechtheion
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Old Temple of Athena
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Legendary Olive Tree of the Pandroseion
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Acropolis Musem
One can spend half a day discovering and re-living history dating back to 25 centuries ago!
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The majestic Parthenon characteristic of ancient Greek history, remains one of the most sacred and magnificent sites of the ancient world. Constructed in 447-432 BCE by architects Kallikrates and Iktinos, Parthenon was dedicated to the goddess Athena. The temple held her ivory and gold statue made by Pheidias that was eventually lost and its current whereabouts are a mystery!
Mythological tales have it that Athena with her shield defeated Poseidon with his trident. She presented the people of Greece with an olive tree which they preferred to the salt sea that Poseidon had to offer, thus, the city was named after the Goddess as we know it today, Athens. The Greek Goddess of Wisdom and Warfare and the Guardian of Athens!
Built in classical style, the temple has 136 Doric columns [17 in length and 8 in breadth] signifying a sense of harmony and order. The columns are 10.5 meters high and are broader towards the base [diameters of 1.9 feet] and narrower towards the top [1.5 meters] creating an optical illusion of a perfectly balanced building. ​
A combined entry ticket gives access to the below sites:
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The Ancient Agora of Athens and the Museum of the Ancient Agora
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Kerameikos and the Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos
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The Temple of Olympian Zeus (Olympieio)
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The Roman Agora of Athens and the Tower of the Winds
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Hadrian’s Library
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Aristotle’s Lyceum (Archaeological site of Lykeion)
Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis Museum is a must-visit. Built as recently as 10 years ago, it intentionally faces the Parthenon and stands on excavations of an old city. On the third floor of the museum, a video provides a synopsis of Parthenon’s history over the last 25 centuries. Through history, the French and English transported parts of Parthenon back to their respective countries. They currently have these displayed in their own museums and refuse to return them at the pretext that Greece doesn’t have a place to exhibit the same, which is why the Acropolis museum was constructed. Nonetheless, it doesn’t seem to have changed the French and English’s stand!
During the invasion of the Persians in 480 BC, what is now called Older Parthenon was replaced by the Parthenon, which used to have a roof covering the temple with marble tiles. However, the structure was further destroyed when the temple’s marble figurines were ruthlessly torn out and converted to a church in 5-6th century AD. After 950 years of being a church, Parthenon was converted to a mosque in late 1450-early 1460's post the Ottoman conquest. During the Turkish rule, the building was being used to store gun powder and ammunitions, which was ignited when Venetians and Turks engaged in war resulting in an explosion of the 2100-year old structure.
Parthenon’s original architecture has been preserved and maintained through the centuries and its larger-than-life presence tells us the story of Ancient Greek and its former glory.
The best way to get a feel of the Athens is to walk around and so we wandered through Philopappou Hill, encountering the rock where direct democracy had taken birth and from where you get the best view of the Acropolis; the Parliament building that used to be a palace for a Bavarian King; witnessing the change of guards which remains a prestigious post. Each aspect of the costumes worn by the guards have a well-thought meaning such as the number of folds being 400 on the skirt representing the liberation from 400 years of Turkish rule. The three squares in the city center form a triangle and one witnesses an amalgamation of Greek Orthodox churches that have domes as opposed to arches, mosques from the Turkish rule as well as the Roman influence, with the Romans having been in Greece for 1100 years.
As we sauntered through the center, we came across a cafe that changes its theme based on recent Hollywood ventures, with the current one being a colorful Mary Poppins ;) The land of fairytales comes alive!
My personal favorite was walking through the streets with graffiti, Psyrri, that extends into the neighborhood of Exarcheia, a university neighborhood that belongs to the anarchists! Inundated with posters, artwork and an activist spirit with a strong & loud stand, the anarchists make clear that they are fighting for a different world! Widely presumed to be dissidents, dangerous or evil, I would say quite to the contrary, the anarchists refuse to accept authority that can most often be corrupt, deceptive and failing its citizens. A must-visit if you’re in Athens to get inspired, commence questioning and demand oh so much better!
Greek Grub
Drool Alert! Don't say I didn't warn you ;)
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If we were to sum up our food experience during our escapade, we would say that "Greek food is heaven". We ended up experiencing two completely distinct cuisines because of our travels through Athens and Crete. While seafood and meat does seem to be the primary food of choice in Greece, there are a few notable vegetarian options in greek cuisine. Boureki, a cretan dish from Chania, is a mouth watering delight of potatoes, zucchini, and cretan cheese. Crete is also knows for their snails. Fried cheese (similar to the Indian paneer) and potatoes, and salad is a mainstay in Greek palate including potatoes - The Greek's love their potatoes! Eggplant dishes were in profusion and yummy. We had the most tender lamb in Crete and Greek pasta (which is different from the Italian pasta since, it's not made with flour) in Athens. Food is very reasonably priced with dishes varying from 7-13 euros. Another must try is the Mousaka, which is typically made with meat and potatoes but we tried one that was vegetarian. Our friends got us to try Fava which looks a lot like humus but is made from split peas. We ate this with capers and caramelized onions (Big O :P). A greek summer is incomplete without grilled seafood -- unfortunately we inhaled the food as soon as it hit our table, which is why there are no pictures -- it included grilled shrimp, squid, sardines, octopus, anchovies, and mackerel. We guarantee that you will be in seafood bliss. Other notable Greek dishes not highlighted here are souvlaki, smoked pork, and Kalamata olives with aged cheese among others.
Quick Tip
Renting a car:
There are several rental companies at the Athens and Crete airport (such as Avis, Sixt, Hertz et al) and it’s best to book in advance to ensure availability & procure a good deal. Throughout Greece, you will find smaller unknown companies offering unbelievable deals online ($16 per day) but it’s important to check whether the company has a 24/7 customer care, is offering well-serviced cars and an accessible parking garage to return the car. We had two terrible experiences, where firstly, we got stood up by a car company because our flight was delayed and we had no way of contacting them when we arrived at 11:00 PM. On the second instance, we did not get the car or anything similar to what we had booked online, instead the company offered a 10-year old car, which we were quite speculative off so we ended up canceling the booking. In retrospect, instead of being penny wise foolish, I would recommend going with a known car company even if it’s slightly more expensive and booking online well in advance to get the best deal!